PPX Discovery Club AOTM

July 18,2026

 

Welcome to the PPX Discovery Club

First and foremost—thank you.

Thank you for believing in ProPigmentRx, for trusting my formulations, and for being willing to continue investing in your education. The PPX Discovery Club was created for estheticians who don’t just want to use products—they want to understand why they work.

Every month, you’ll receive exclusive formulations developed inside the ProPigmentRx lab before they become available anywhere else. This is your opportunity to experience new ingredients, evaluate formulations, learn how different actives work together, and build confidence in choosing the right ingredients for your clients.

Why We Started with PDRN & Ectoin

For our very first Discovery Club release, I wanted to focus on two ingredients that are transforming corrective skincare but are still misunderstood by many professionals: PDRN and Ectoin.

Although these ingredients perform differently, they share one important goal—creating healthier, more resilient skin.

PDRN

PDRN is all about regeneration and repair. It supports the skin’s natural recovery process, making it an excellent ingredient for compromised, dehydrated, aging, or post-procedure skin. Think of PDRN as an ingredient that helps the skin recover more efficiently while supporting overall skin quality.

PDRN pairs exceptionally well with:

  • Growth factors (EGF)
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Panthenol
  • Ceramides
  • Copper Peptides
  • Beta-Glucan
  • Barrier-supporting ingredients

Ectoin

Ectoin is one of my favorite barrier-support ingredients because it helps protect skin from environmental stress while strengthening moisture retention. It’s an incredible ingredient for reactive, inflamed, dehydrated, compromised, and higher Fitzpatrick skin, making it one of the most versatile ingredients available today.

Ectoin pairs beautifully with:

  • Niacinamide
  • Ceramides
  • Panthenol
  • Colloidal Oatmeal
  • Beta-Glucan
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Tranexamic Acid
  • N-Acetyl Glucosamine

When Should You Reach for These Ingredients?

Both ingredients can be used year-round, but they truly shine when the skin is under stress.

Whether your client has recently undergone chemical peels, microneedling, laser treatments, or simply has a compromised skin barrier from over-exfoliation or environmental exposure, PDRN and Ectoin work together to help support recovery while improving hydration, resilience, and overall skin function.

As estheticians, we often focus on correcting pigmentation, acne, and aging—but none of those concerns can be treated effectively without first respecting the skin barrier. Healthy skin responds better to treatment, heals more efficiently, and delivers more predictable results.

That’s exactly why these two ingredients were chosen to launch the PPX Discovery Club.

Your Assignment This Month

Don’t just use these products—study them.

Try them on different skin types. Use them before and after procedures. Layer them with different actives. Pay attention to texture, hydration, recovery, barrier function, and overall skin response.

The goal of the Discovery Club isn’t simply to receive products. It’s to become a more knowledgeable esthetician with every monthly shipment.

Welcome to the very first month of the PPX Discovery Club.

I’m excited to learn, formulate, and grow alongside you.

 

 

 

August 18, 2026

AUGUST DISCOVERY CLUB EDUCATION

RETINOL vs. BAKUCHIOL

Same goal. Different chemistry. Different way of getting there.

This month’s Discovery Club is all about retinol and bakuchiol—two ingredients that get compared constantly in skincare, and honestly… often misunderstood.

You’ve probably heard bakuchiol called:
“natural retinol,” “plant-based retinol,” or “nature’s retinol.”

And while that sounds clean and simple for marketing, it’s not scientifically accurate.

Let’s be clear:

Bakuchiol is NOT retinol.
It is NOT a retinoid.
It does NOT convert into retinoic acid in the skin.

What is true is that bakuchiol can create similar-looking results in the skin through completely different biological pathways. That’s where the confusion started and why this comparison matters.

We chose these two actives for a reason.

Not to decide which one is “better,” but to help you understand:

  • what each ingredient actually is
  • how they work differently
  • where they overlap
  • and why formulation + skin type matters more than marketing claims


PART ONE: RETINOL

WHAT IS RETINOL?

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and part of the retinoid family.

That matters because all retinoids are connected to retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A that drives most of the changes we associate with retinol use.

Retinol itself is not the final active form. It has to convert in the skin:

RETINOL → RETINALDEHYDE → RETINOIC ACID

Once it becomes retinoic acid, it binds to specific receptors in the skin and influences how skin cells behave at a genetic level.

This is why retinol is so powerful and why it’s so well studied.


HOW RETINOL WORKS

Retinol is not just “an exfoliant.”

It works much deeper than that.

It influences:

SKIN CELL BEHAVIOR
Helps regulate how skin cells grow, mature, and turn over.

COLLAGEN SUPPORT
Supports collagen production while helping reduce breakdown pathways that accelerate aging.

SKIN RENEWAL
Improves overall texture and smoothness over time through consistent cell turnover.

PHOTOAGING
One of the most researched ingredients for sun-related aging changes in the skin.

PIGMENT APPEARANCE
Helps improve uneven tone by supporting healthier skin turnover and function.

So instead of targeting one issue, retinol works more like a global skin regulator.

It’s working at a cellular communication level—not just the surface.


WHY RETINOL CAN BE IRRITATING

Here’s the trade-off.

Because retinol is biologically active, the skin can sometimes react while adjusting.

Common responses include:

  • dryness
  • redness
  • flaking
  • tightness
  • sensitivity
  • barrier disruption

This is especially important when working with pigment-prone skin.

Because here’s the truth:

Too much inflammation can actually make pigmentation worse.

So the goal is never:

“How strong can we go?”

The real question is:

“What level of retinol gives results without stressing the skin barrier?”


PART TWO: BAKUCHIOL

WHAT IS BAKUCHIOL?

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound found in certain botanical sources.

Chemically, it is completely different from retinol.

And this is important:

Bakuchiol is NOT vitamin A
It is NOT a retinoid
It does NOT convert into retinoic acid
It does NOT behave like retinol in the same pathway

So when people call it “natural retinol,” that’s marketing—not science.

A more accurate way to describe it is:

a retinol-like functional active

Because it can create some similar visible outcomes without using the same biological system.


HOW BAKUCHIOL WORKS

Research became more interesting when scientists compared how bakuchiol and retinol affect skin at a gene-expression level.

Even though they are structurally different, they showed overlapping activity in pathways related to skin aging and collagen support.

That’s where the “retinol-like” conversation comes from.

But notice the wording:

retinol-like FUNCTION

Not:

retinol chemistry

That difference is everything.

Bakuchiol has been shown to influence:

COLLAGEN SUPPORT
Helps support markers related to skin structure and firmness.

SKIN TEXTURE
Improves the look of fine lines and uneven texture over time.

PIGMENT APPEARANCE
Has shown improvement in uneven tone in clinical research.

OXIDATIVE + INFLAMMATORY STRESS
Has antioxidant and calming properties that may support overall skin resilience.

But important note:

The research on bakuchiol is still growing.
It does not have the same decades of data as retinol.


THE STUDY THAT CHANGED THE CONVERSATION

One well-known clinical study compared:

  • 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily)
  • 0.5% retinol (once daily)

After 12 weeks, both groups saw improvements in:

  • wrinkles
  • texture
  • pigmentation

But the retinol group reported more irritation—like dryness and stinging.

The conclusion?

Bakuchiol performed similarly in that study for those specific outcomes, with better tolerability.

But here’s the key point:

That does NOT mean they are the same ingredient.

It means:

two different ingredients can produce overlapping results in certain conditions.

Not identical mechanisms. Not identical biology.


WHY BAKUCHIOL IS CALLED “NATURAL RETINOL”

This is where marketing steps in.

Because “bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound with retinol-like gene expression activity” is not exactly consumer-friendly language.

So it gets simplified into:

“natural alternative to retinol” → “natural retinol”

And over time, that gets misunderstood as:

they are the same thing

They are not.

This is a perfect example of how marketing can take real science and simplify it so much that the meaning gets lost.


RETINOL vs. BAKUCHIOL (REAL DIFFERENCE)

RETINOL

  • Vitamin A derivative
  • Works through conversion to retinoic acid
  • Strong, well-researched, predictable
  • Can be irritating if misused
  • Decades of clinical data

BAKUCHIOL

  • Plant-derived compound
  • Not a retinoid
  • Does not convert to vitamin A pathways
  • May influence similar visible outcomes
  • Generally better tolerated
  • Still emerging research


SAME RESULT ≠ SAME PATHWAY

This is the biggest takeaway.

Both ingredients can influence:

  • collagen
  • texture
  • pigmentation
  • skin aging
  • overall skin quality

But they do NOT do it the same way.

In skincare, we have to stop assuming:

same result = same mechanism

Because biology doesn’t work like that.

There are always multiple ways to reach similar skin outcomes.


WHY THIS DROP MATTERS

This month isn’t about choosing a “winner.”

It’s about learning how to think like a skin professional.

We want you to:

  • use both
  • observe both
  • compare both
  • understand both

Because real education comes from understanding why something works not just what it’s called.

When you understand the mechanism, you stop relying on marketing to make decisions for you.


WHAT TO PAY ATTENTION TO

As you use these actives, notice:

TOLERANCE
Which one causes more dryness or sensitivity?

TEXTURE
How does the skin feel over time?

PIGMENT
How does tone change with consistent use?

BARRIER HEALTH
Does the skin stay balanced or feel stressed?

CONSISTENCY
Which one is easier for your client to actually stick with?

Because the best ingredient in the world means nothing if the skin can’t tolerate it consistently.


FINAL TAKEAWAY

Don’t let marketing define ingredients for you.

Don’t assume “natural” means better, gentler, or weaker.

And don’t assume two ingredients are the same just because they look similar on the surface.

Bakuchiol doesn’t need to be retinol to be effective.
Retinol doesn’t need a replacement to still be gold-standard.

Both have a place.

Both work differently.

And understanding that difference is what makes you better at what you do.


AUGUST DISCOVERY CLUB

RETINOL vs. BAKUCHIOL

Not because they’re the same.

But because understanding their differences is where real skin education begins.


 


blue highlighted 2oz bottle -Noire Peel

green highlighted 15ml dropper bottle- bakuchiol & 4butylresorcinol serum

yellow highlighted 15 ml dropper bottle-retinol & snow mushroom serum 

 

Noire Peel Protocol

1. DOUBLE CLEANSE
Double cleanse the skin using the appropriate cleanser for the client’s skin type.

2. MECHANICAL EXFOLIATION
Mechanically exfoliate the face using the appropriate method, such as:

  • Microdermabrasion
  • Dermaplaning
  • Hydrodermabrasion
  • Other appropriate mechanical exfoliation

3. EXTRACT
Perform extractions as needed and as tolerated by the skin.

4. DEGREASE
Degrease the skin thoroughly with Purely Primed.

5. APPLY Noire Peel
 one even layer to the treatment area with fan brush 

6. Massage into skin for 5-7 min

7. Observe

Closely monitor the skin for:

  • Increasing erythema
  • Excessive discomfort
  • Possible frosting
  • Any unexpected skin response

8. REMOVE
Wipe the skin thoroughly with cool water.

9. pH RECOVERY MIST
Saturate a cotton round with pH Recovery Mist and gently wipe down the entire treatment area.

10. FINISH
Apply an appropriate moisturizer(The Finisher) followed by broad-spectrum SPF.

***IMPORTANT

All ProPigmentRx peels are self-neutralizing.


AFTERCARE

WHAT CAN YOUR CLIENT EXPECT? 

the skin may temporarily feel and appear similar to a mild to moderate sunburn.

Depending on the client’s skin, number of layers and treatment intensity, normal post-treatment responses may include:

  • Flaking
  • Scaling
  • Mild scabbing
  • Redness
  • Dryness
  • Mild swelling

These responses can vary significantly from client to client. Visible peeling is not required for the treatment to be effective.

POST-TREATMENT CARE

Keep the skin hydrated, protected and undisturbed while it recovers.

Do not pick, peel, scratch or manually remove flaking skin. Avoid scrubs, exfoliating acids, retinoids and other potentially irritating actives until the skin has recovered.

Avoid additional exfoliating or aggressive professional treatments during the recovery period.

Use a gentle cleanser, appropriate moisturizer and broad-spectrum SPF daily. Minimize unnecessary sun and heat exposure while the skin is recovering.

If the skin develops a reaction that is excessive, prolonged or inconsistent with the expected post-peel response, discontinue potentially irritating products and evaluate the skin before resuming the normal regimen.

 

 

RETINOL + SNOW MUSHROOM + PHENYLETHYL RESORCINOL SERUM

PPX Discovery Club | 15 mL

HOW TO USE

PM USE ONLY

After cleansing, apply 2–3 drops to clean, completely dry skin. Gently smooth over the face and neck, avoiding the eye area, corners of the nose and lips.

Follow with an appropriate hydrating/barrier-supportive moisturizer.

INTRODUCING THE SERUM

Because this formula contains retinol, introduce it gradually according to skin tolerance.

Beginner / Sensitive Skin:
Start 1–2 nights per week.

Retinol-Experienced / Resilient Skin:
Begin 2–3 nights per week and gradually increase frequency as tolerated.

Daily use is not required to achieve benefits.

WHAT TO EXPECT

This formula combines three different corrective approaches:

RETINOL
Supports cellular turnover and helps improve the appearance of fine lines, uneven texture and overall skin clarity.

SNOW MUSHROOM
Provides hydration and helps support a comfortable, healthy-looking skin barrier.

PHENYLETHYL RESORCINOL
A targeted pigment-regulating active that helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and discoloration.

IMPORTANT

Do not apply to irritated, compromised or freshly exfoliated skin.

Avoid combining in the same routine with other retinoids, strong exfoliating acids, aggressive scrubs or other highly irritating corrective products, particularly while establishing tolerance.

If excessive dryness, peeling, burning or persistent irritation occurs, discontinue use until the skin has recovered and reduce frequency when reintroducing.

Use broad-spectrum SPF every morning while using this product.

Do not use during pregnancy.

 

 

BAKUCHIOL + 4-BUTYLRESORCINOL SERUM

PPX Discovery Club | 15 mL

HOW TO USE

1. CLEANSE
Cleanse the skin thoroughly and pat dry.

2. APPLY
Apply 2–3 drops to the face and neck. Gently press or massage into the skin until absorbed.

3. MOISTURIZE
Follow with an appropriate moisturizer to support hydration and barrier function.

4. SPF
When used during the daytime, always finish with broad-spectrum SPF 30+.

FREQUENCY

This serum may be used AM and/or PM based on skin tolerance and the rest of the client’s regimen.

For sensitive or highly reactive skin, begin once daily or every other day and gradually increase frequency as tolerated.

WHY THE COMBINATION?

BAKUCHIOL
A retinol-alternative active that helps support skin renewal, smoother texture and a more even, radiant appearance.

4-BUTYLRESORCINOL
A targeted tyrosinase inhibitor that helps address the appearance of hyperpigmentation, dark spots and uneven skin tone.

Together, the actives provide a pigment-focused corrective approach without relying on a traditional retinoid.

IMPORTANT

  • Do not apply to broken, irritated or compromised skin.
  • Avoid introducing multiple new corrective products at the same time.
  • If irritation develops, reduce frequency or temporarily discontinue use.
  • Do not assume that the absence of peeling or irritation means the serum is not working.
  • Consistent sunscreen use is essential when addressing hyperpigmentation.