Melanin Peel Bible 2026

Melanin Peel Bible

 

It can be confusing looking at product labels which list a acid as an ingredient. Even if they DO give you a percent strength, what does that mean, and can it be relied on to tell you how a product will react with your skin?

In short: sort of, it’s complicated, one number doesn’t tell the whole story. There are multiple factors to consider when choosing a peel strength.

Did you know that peels can be either buffered or unbuffered, but as long as they start with the same percentage strength, two very different peels can claim to both be Glycolic 30%? Buffered means watered down (although other ingredients can be used to dilute a peel, not just water). So guess which peel is going to be MUCH stronger feeling on your skin? The unbuffered, but peels don’t have to say if they’re buffered or not.

So what does that mean? Don’t assume the percentage strength listed on the bottle will tell the whole story. Just because you’ve used a 50% strength peel from one company, that may not equal a 50% with a different brand.

Start low: It’s better to start with a lower strength peel, as in 5-15% strength, since an acid like Glycolic Acid is actually time-dependent. You can get the same results with a 10% glycolic peel by leaving it on for a few minutes, versus leaving a 50% peel on for a few seconds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fitzpatrick Scale

Type	Color
I	Very white or freckled
II	White
III	White to olive
IV	Brown
V	Dark brown
VI	Black

One of the primary concerns for black or brown skin when having any skin treatments, including peels is the potential to develop Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation. That is, instead of clearing the hyperpigmentation the treatment does the opposite and creates more hyperpigmentation, dark marks and scarring.
Therefore, it is important to ensure the clients skin is properly prepped and primed in the weeks leading up to the peel. This could be in the form of a preparatory peel or using home-care products with similar ingredients to the peel.
It is also important to leave adequate time between treatments to allow skin to heal. Ten to fourteen days is ideal, though some peel treatments can require up to four weeks.
It is also important that a full medical history is disclosed including discussing your clients propensity to scar. If client has suffered from keloid scarring in the past, then peels are not advisable.

 

ACIDS

 

Alpha Hydroxy Acid: Alpha hydroxy acids, often called the fruit acids, include glycolic, lactic, malic, mandelic, tartaric, and citric acids. They aid in exfoliation by dissolving the fibrous bonds (desmosomes) that hold skin cells together in the epidermis. They work from the lower layers of the skin upward, assisting the desquamation process. Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble and are used to treat fine lines and wrinkles, areas of dryness, uneven pigmentation, and acne.

 

Beta Hydroxy Acid: Beta hydroxy acids have a different molecular structure than alpha hydroxy acids, so they function differently. Alpha hydroxy acids work on clusters of cells, while beta hydroxy acids can focus on individual cells. A beta hydroxy acid works from the surface downward. Beta hydroxy acids are lipid-soluble, making them a practical choice for oily skin types. The most common form of beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid derived from salicin, which is closely related to the main ingredient in aspirin, making it essential to determine whether or not a client is allergic to aspirin before using this ingredient in any part of a treatment or post-care. Other common beta hydroxy acids include derivatives of salicylic acid, which include salicylate, sodium salicylate, willow extract, beta hydroxybutanoic acid, and trethocanic acid. Because beta hydroxy acids are anti-inflammatory, they tend to be less irritating than an alpha hydroxy acid.

 

Poly Hydroxy Acid and Para-hydroxybenzoic Acid (Bionics): Polyhydroxy acids, like gluconic acid and gluconolactone, fall under the alpha hydroxy acid category but are milder than alpha hydroxy acids and non-irritating, making them an alternative option for acne formulations and an excellent choice for sensitive skin conditions. Poly hydroxy bionic acids like maltobionic or lactobionic acids have a similar molecular structure except that there is an additional sugar molecule attached to the poly hydroxy acid. Both poly hydroxy acid and bionics function similarly to an alpha hydroxy acid except they:

 

 

TCA: Trichloroacetic acid treats fine surface wrinkles, pre-cancerous growths, superficial blemishes, and pigment problems like melasma, blotchy skin, and sun damage. TCAs can be superficial at 6%, medium-depth at 20% to 30%, and deep above 40% up to 100%.

 

Phenol: Phenol is the strongest of the chemical solutions and produces a deep peel depending on the percentage and whether it is part of a blended solution. For example, a 2% phenol would be superficial. Phenol can hypopigment a treated area. The level of skin pigmentation may be a determining factor as to whether or not this is an appropriate treatment for a client.

 

Resorcinol: It is a precursor to phenol, which contributes to flaking when added to a chemical peel blend.

 

Retinoids: The primary purpose of a retinoid is cell turnover rather than desquamation. However, when used in any exfoliating procedure, retinoids may lead to pronounced flaking. Retinoids and vitamin A derivatives can range from very mild (retinal palmitate) to prescription level retinoic acid (tretinoin).

 

 

ENZYMES

 

Enzymes function as catalysts; they accelerate a chemical reaction. In skin care, an enzyme is activated by water, which causes the keratin proteins within the skin to break apart, allowing the dead skin cells to accompany the enzyme during its removal. Enzymes alone can be an excellent option for a teenager or any client who does not want to experience post-treatment flaking.

 

Additionally, any treatment protocol that layers enzymes with acids is an effective option that generates deeper acid penetration without the irritation of using a stronger percentage of any given peel solution. Just a few of the many common enzymes used in skin care are bromelain (pineapple), papain (papaya), pumpkin, blueberry, apple, phytase, and passionfruit.

 

Passionfruit digests skin cells on the surface of the skin and inside the hair follicle. It not only digests superficial dead cells but is a rich nutrient and antioxidant that has over 104 nutrients, a delicious scent, is very useful for purging congestion, and is a trending enzyme for fall treatments. Passionfruit is packed with antioxidants and is perfect for aging skin, reduction of pore size, and breakout-prone skin. It has hydrating benefits, in addition to enzymatic action. The enzymes in phytic acid are gentle, skin-softening phytochemicals found in rice bran. The enzyme warms the skin and is not intended for use on sensitive skin conditions.

 

 

 

 

SCRUBS

 

Scrubs remove dead skin cells immediately, allowing for a deeper chemical peel penetration. Be sure to use a gentle tried and true scrub to not irritate or inflame skin before peel application. A few possible examples include the microdermabrasion scrubs using alumina, silica, or sea salt. Also consider jojoba beads, rice bran, and juglans regia (walnut) shell powder.

 

 

INGREDIENTS AND PEELS THAT LAYER WELL

 

Jessner’s plus TCA plus Retinol: The Jessner’s solution (salicylic acid plus resorcinol plus lactic acid in an ethanol base) is often used as a primer to optimize deeper peel penetration by disrupting the stratum corneum, allowing the TCA to penetrate deeper than when used alone.

 

 

 

INGREDIENTS AND PEELS THAT DO NOT PLAY WELL TOGETHER

 

Typically, an alpha hydroxy acid and a beta hydroxy acid are not used together in the same treatment. For example, glycolic acid and salicylic combined can be irritating to the skin. However, as true with all skin care, it is often not the ingredient that is an issue but how a product is formulated. There are a few manufacturers that combine glycolic with salicylic or lactic with salicylic acids in the same formula to get the results of an alpha hydroxy acid with the keratolytic and anti-inflammatory benefits from the beta hydroxy. As noted earlier, it is not advised to combine a peptide exfoliant with an alpha hydroxy acid.

 

The crucial component to take note here is that each manufacturer has a cosmetic chemist or pharmacist that works with a research and development team to formulate safe and efficacious solutions, utilizing clinical trials and thorough product testing over a period of years before their peel solutions come to market. An individual skin care professional should never play chemist by mixing products on their own. Always follow manufacturer protocols.

 

 

 

 

PROS AND CONS OF LAYERING OR MIXING PRODUCTS

 

Pros

 

Cons

 

TIPS AND CONSIDERATIONS

 

Have a thorough consultation. A thorough consultation and skin analysis are required to determine skin type, conditions, sensitivity levels, Fitzpatrick scale, assess goals, and determine if the client’s goals are realistic and achievable. Has the client used any exfoliants earlier that day or week? If so, which ones? Is the client under a physician’s care and using a prescription-strength retinoid, antibiotics, or any other products that would interfere with the treatment? Does the client have any current skin sensitivities? What are the client’s primary skin concerns?

 

Consider whether the client will be compliant with the aftercare instructions. Does the client have any allergies? For example, with an allergy to aspirin, avoid salicylic acid. Does the client have active cold sores or experience frequent herpetic breakouts? The client may need to pretreat with a prescription antiviral or with l-lysine supplements to prevent an outbreak following treatment.

 

Be conservative – it is best not to blend peels or layer different solutions until seeing how well the client tolerates each enzyme and acid individually before combining them.

 

Test patch all exfoliation types intended for use. Select exfoliants based on skin type, condition, and Fitzpatrick scale

 

 

 

 

 

SUPERFICIAL PEELS

There are three main layers to the skin: the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis. Superficial chemical peels penetrate only the epidermis. Most commonly, superficial chemical peels utilize the exfoliating powers of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or (BHAs)which are often naturally occurring acids found in fruits. Examples include glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic or malic acid. Glycolic acid is the most common ingredient in superficial peels and can be used in concentrations up to 50% under the supervision of a professional. At-home chemical peels can be found in concentrations of 3-10% and are available over the counter. Superficial chemical peels can be utilized on their own, or as a pre-treatment of the skin for a medium or deep peel. By exfoliating away the epidermis with the superficial peel, deeper peels can penetrate deeper and become more effective. Depending on the intensity of the chemical peel the  ofwrinkles, sun-damage, acne, skin discolorations, blotchiness, brown spots, scars and certain can be reduced

 

 

 

 

 

Tyrosinase Inhibitors

 

With acne often comes scarring. This is called Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)  This is an over production in melanin, which causes a darker mark to show on the skin. It is the same process that happens for scarring, age spots, and pigmentation.Tyrosinase is the enzyme responsible for the first step in melanin production. It is part of a conversion process that creates the pigment (melanin) to be transported to the top layer of your skin resulting in a darkening of the skin. It is a defense mechanism against damage (inflammation, picking and UV rays to name a couple) When cells have been damaged by the inflammation of a pimple, the Tyrosinase enzyme will send an excess of Tyrosine which will result in overproduction of pigment. This is what you see as a scar.Tyrosinase Inhibitor products will reduce the enzyme Tyrosinase from over stimulating so there is no overproduction of pigment in the skin. We don’t want to stop this process from happening as the scar (or pigment) is there as a protective mechanism to stop harm to the skin, what we want to do is slow down the process and only have a melanin needed to protect the skin released.The darker the scar the longer it will take to fade, so if we can stop it from being darker from the start, then it is easier and quicker to fix. Tyrosinase Inhibitors will correct hyperpigmentation and reduce it from over producing but it does require continued use. Our skin has a memory and once it’s been damaged hyperpigmentation can come back, especially if the cells are left unprotected. Tyrosinase Inhibitors are not only for those who have Hyperpigmentation, but also for clients that have healthy, even skin.

Gigawhite

Gigawhite is a skin lightener developed from Alpine plants by that can lighten and even skin tone as well as reduce the color intensity of age spots.

Gigawhite was developed as a result of a research program in which about a hundred plants were selected for their tyrosinase-inhibiting capacity. Dopachrome formation was measured using a spectrophotometer.  Of the hundred plants tested, 15 were selected for their in vitro tyrosinase-inhibiting activity and were subsequently tested on cell cultures. In the cell cultures, 7 plants manifested even greater tyrosinase-inhibiting activity.  These were active not only on whole cells (with their membranes) but also on cell lysates (the membranes having been destroyed). The plants were combined in a proprietary and synergistic ratio maximizing there activity and producing an even more effective compound mix(Gigawhite)

 

Cysteamine

Cysteamine (2-mercaptoeth-ylamine) hydrochloride has been known as a potent depigmenting agent for more than 40 years. It is a product of cysteine metabolism, acting as an intrinsic antioxidant, protecting against ionizing radiation and serving as an antimutagenic agent (compared to hydroquinones, which are cytoxic and mutagenic in some animal models). Cysteamine is a thiol compound, inhibiting tyrosinase and peroxidase involved in melanogenesis. The molecule also scavenges dopaquinone in the melanin pathway, chelates iron and copper, and increases intracellular levels of glutathione (which is associated with the shift of eumelanogenesis to pheomelanin synthesis). Being a thiol compound, cysteamine is associated with an offensive odor, which obviated its cosmetic use

 

pigmentation an important ingredient to go with your tyrosinase inhibitor must be sunscreen as this in UV ray damage is the 1st step of protection.

Hydroquinone (HQ) is a hydroxyphenolic compound that has been widely used for skin lightening for 50 years. It is the only FDA-approved product for skin bleaching on the market, and a prescription is required to obtain products with a concentration above 2%. HQ is the most widely studied bleaching agent available, and its effectiveness is solidly supported through scientific studies, but its use can come at a cost. The product can be very irritating to sensitive skin, and in some cases can even cause pigmentation to darken and get worse, particularly in those with very dark skin types. Long term use of HQ, particularly in higher concentrations of 4% or more, can lead to the development of a permanent condition known as exogenous ochronosis. HQ is also very difficult to stabilize and will oxidize quickly if exposed to light and air. If a product containing HQ has darkened from an off-white or a creamy, pale yellow to a gold or brown color, it is no longer effective and should be discarded. It is best to start using HQ products gradually, every couple of days or so, and build up a tolerance

 

 

 

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid, a by-product of rice fermentation, was first discovered in Japan in 1907. Kojic acid is the second most-common bleaching agent and is a more natural and gentlealternative to the stronger effects of the more frequently used hydroquinone. It penetrates the upper skin layers and inhibits the production of epidermal melanin. Kojic acid does pose the risk of causing allergic or sensitizing reactions in a small number of people.

A natural skin brightener found in wheat, rye and barley, azelaic acid (AZA) is most effective in concentrations of 20%, which is closely comparable in activity to 4% hydroquinone. Azelaic acid also is antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, so it is effective in the treatment of rosacea and acne.

(also known as alpha arbutin, bearberry extract or uva ursiextract)

A botanical, naturally-occuring cousin to hydroquinone, arbutin is derived from the bearberry plant (also known as uva ursiplant). Compared to HQ, arbutin has been shown to be significantly less cytotoxic to the melanocyte, making it a much safer, yet very effective, alternative to hydroquinone.

One of the safest and most-gentle bleaching agents available, licorice extract is a potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. The ingredients responsible for the skin whitening aspect of the plant are known as glabradin and liquiritin. Liquiritin (in a 20% concentration) has been shown to provide good to excellent results in 70-90% of patients with hyperpigmentation and melasma with minimal side effects and only minor irritation.

Mulberry extract is derived from the root bark of the mulberry tree. Studies have confirmed it to effectively reduce tyrosinase activity at much lower concentrations than either hydroquinone or kojic acid.

N-acetyl glucosamine is a more stable form of glucosamine, an agent most widely known as an arthritis treatment. Recent studies have shown it to successfully reduce the amount of melanin in melanocytes by blocking tyrosinase conversion. Interestingly, the product’s results improve significantly when combined with niacinamide (see below).

Some skin-bleaching agents lighten unwanted pigmentation by interfering with the transfer of melanosomes from the melanocyte to the keratinocytes. Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a biologically active form of niacin (vitamin B3) that has been shown to interrupt melanocyte transfer by 35-75%. It also has been found to effectively reduce melanocyte uptake with no irritation or side effects.

Soybean Trypsin Inhibitor (STI) is a depigmenting agent derived from soybeans. STI reduces pigment in the skin by inhibiting the activation of a pathway necessary for the melanosome transfer to take place. In addition, STI has been shown to prevent UVB-induced pigmentation.

 

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SKIN TYPES

 

The five basic skin types are oily, dry, normal, mature, and combination. Skin type will vary at different times of an individual’s life; it is often affected by internal and external factors. Individuals are born with healthy skin, then experience oilier and combination skin in their teenage years and drier skin as they age.

 

Oily skin has overactive sebaceous activity; it appears shiny and feels greasy. Pores are larger than normal or dry skin. Beta hydroxy acids like salicylic acid are often used on oily and acne-prone skin.

 

Dry skin lacks lipids and natural moisturizing factors, sometimes referred to as alipidic. Pore size is small and sebaceous glands are underactive.

 

Combination skin contains a mixture of oilier skin, usually along the t-zone, with normal or dry skin in other areas.

 

Normal is the ideal skin type that is well balanced and not too oily or too dry.

Mature skin presents fine lines and wrinkles, is usually dry, and displays multiple age-related skin conditions.

 

Exfoliation allows the skin to breathe and enables any topically applied products to spread evenly and penetrate effectively. The barrier is improved, allowing it to fight infection and prevent moisture loss (transepidermal water loss). Exfoliation assists the skin in returning to homeostasis – the state of balance.

 

SKIN CONDITIONS

 

Skin conditions change throughout an individual’s life. Skin conditions include acne, photoaging, hyperpigmentation, eczema, rosacea, and couperose, amongst many others.

 

Hyperpigmentation, Photodamage, and Aging: Several exfoliation options work well for these conditions, such as retinoids for cell turnover and to balance skin tone and lactic acid for brightening and pigment suppression. Jessner’s solution combines 14% lactic acid, 14% salicylic acid, and resorcinol.Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is a superficial to deep exfoliating agent (percentage and layer dependent) that can be applied in progressive layers. Low percentage phenol, TCA, and retinoic acid blends are excellent for pigment, advanced photodamage, and aging, with the additional benefit of being accessible to Fitzpatrick IV to VI.

 

Breakouts: Breakout-prone skin is often oily and inflamed. Salicylic acid is a standard go-to for its keratolytic and anti-inflammatory benefits. Pumpkin enzymes are excellent for purging the skin without post-treatment flaking.

 

Sensitized Skin: Sensitized skin is different from a sensitive skin condition. It is a temporary condition brought on by inappropriate use of products (too harsh) or by the environment (bitter, cold, wintry weather is just one example). First, find out what caused the client’s skin to become sensitized. Then, eliminate the offending ingredient or product and postpone treatment until the barrier function has been restored. When the skin’s barrier is intact, opt for mild microexfoliation with phytic acid combinations, which can simultaneously brighten and soothe without compromising the skin.

 

 

Sensitive Skin Conditions

 

Sensitive skin conditions must be diagnosed by a physician. Mild exfoliation can be beneficial for sensitive skin, but advanced exfoliation techniques are not recommended for this condition. Blend acids like lactic and malic to provide much-needed hydration, but do not combine exfoliation methods hoping for deeper peel penetration. The three most common types of sensitive skin are rosacea, psoriasis, and eczema.

 

Rosacea: Over 415 million people suffer from this vascular disorder. A rosacea client’s skin appears red, irritated, and may have dilated capillaries, a rough texture, papules, and pustule. A mild TCA peel (10% or under) combined with lactic acid can remove damaged skin cells, replacing them with healthy new ones. Keep treatment plans simple. Do not incorporate advanced treatments. Concentrate on calming inflammation, reducing erythema, and restoring skin barrier function.

 

Psoriasis: Psoriasis is a condition that involves an extremely rapid cell turnover cycle (just three to five days on average). Cells pile up on the surface because they cannot desquamate properly. The goal is to remove existing plaques while softening the surrounding skin and restoring the skin barrier. Lactic and malic acids can hydrate while exfoliating.

 

Eczema: Focus on hydration, barrier repair, and skin conditioning prior to exfoliation. Do not treat red and inflamed skin. Start with gentle enzymes followed by subsequent treatments, incorporating chemical peels using milder acids like poly hydroxy acids, phytic and malic acids, or blends that include those ingredients.